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archipelago

Sleeping in a pilot tower – Svedtiljas Landsort

Posted in Stockholm E by
Lotstornet Svedtiljas Landsort

Åke Svedtiljas first came to Landsort in 2011 and was immediately charmed by the island’s pilot station. It took a while before he could purchase the building, but after a thorough renovation you can now spend the night in the pilot tower. And that is actually even better than spending the night in the lighthouse because from Lotstornet you have a view of the lighthouse!

Ake Svedtiljas

Spend the night in “Lotstornet”, an old pilot tower

Even those who do not have their own summer house at Landsort can spend the night here. In Lotstornet there are 6 rooms for 2 people each. The rooms are basic but equipped with all necessary comfort. There are 2 rooms per floor, each with a shared bathroom. The advantage of this hotel is its unique location and the beautiful view. Spending the night in the pilot tower costs about 100 euros, breakfast included. You have to add about 15 euros for the ferry to the island.

Landsort - zicht op Lotstornet

Breakfast

For breakfast we were expected in the restaurant of Svedtiljas. The breakfast is extensive and with all fresh products. Attentive readers will see that this is not my plate (I don’t eat meat) that I photographed but one of the other bloggers who came too. Special mention for the freshly squeezed fruit juice and the fresh smoothies.

Lunch

Åke is a renowned chef and spoils the guests in restaurant Svedtiljas with his skills. In the afternoon we had lunch in the restaurant. On the menu: a delicious bouillabaisse. Åke mentioned that the cod had been caught with the line and not with nets. Sustainability is of paramount importance here. The aioli was also very tasty by the way.

Dinner

In the evening, Åke served us a delicious 3-course menu on the top floor of Lotstornet. The food was very high quality and accompanied by matching wines. First we got potato pancakes topped with fish eggs, chives, onions and aioli. The main course was a perfectly cooked cod fillet served with roasted cauliflower.

For dessert we got a crumble with blueberries, strawberries and raspberry sorbet. With a view of the island, this was a real dream location. As icing on the cake, a beautiful rainbow appeared in the sky, followed by a breathtaking sunset.

Regenboog boven Landsort

More information on Svedtiljas can be found on their website (English + Swedish).

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23 April 2021
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Landsort, the southernmost part of the Stockholm archipelago

Posted in Stockholm E by
Landsort

Off the coast of Stockholm lies an archipelago with thousands of islands. The most southern island of that archipelago is Landsort. When I spent a few days on the island in July 2016, Landsort quickly captured my heart. Anyone who takes a look at my Facebook page and wonders where the cover photo was taken… Landsort, from the pilot tower!

The island of Öja

Landsort is a town in the south of the 4 km long and barely 560 meters wide island of Öja and is located about 65 km south of Stockholm. Barely a handful of people live there (there used to be 190 people, now only 27). There are mainly summer houses. When we were there, a completely to be renovated house was for sale for a very affordable price (150,000 SEK or about 15,000 euros). The renovation costs would probably soar as everything had to be transported to the island by boat. Yes, I have considered the purchase (and now I’m sorry I didn’t)!

From Nynäshamn we took the ferry to Landsort. Due to the difficult conditions for mooring with the vessel, there are two inlets on both the eastern and western sides of the island that are used as ports. Depending on the weather, one or the other “port” is chosen.

Landsort comes from Landzoort which stands for “the end of the country” in Old Dutch. It was the Dutch businessman Johan van der Hagen who in 1669 was given the right to provide a lighthouse at this location.

Landsort lighthouse

The lighthouse on the island is the oldest Swedish lighthouse still in use. The current tower was built in 1689. First the signaling was done with a real fire. Only later they worked with lenses to amplify the signal. In 1870, another extension was added to the lighthouse, reaching a height of 25 meters. The light from the tower can be seen for over 40 km. Nowadays a lighthouse is no longer useful because of the modern equipment, but no one dares to turn it off. Lighthouses have great cultural value.

You can also visit the iconic lighthouse on request. When we were there, the owner of Lotstornet had a key. To get to the top of the lighthouse you have to climb 87 stairs. From the top of the tower you have a fantastic view of the island. For a good view of the lighthouse and the island, you have to be in Lotstornet, the pilot tower.

There have been “pilots” on the island since 1535. Because of the difficulties to navigate the environment with a lot of shallow parts, those pilots were not an exaggerated luxury. The Swedes left by sea to “go to war” but were often stranded on their return at Landsort.

The secret side of the island

Landsort is also home to one of the most advanced military bunkers, Batteri Landsort. It was mainly placed there during the Cold War as a deterrent. The anti-aircraft guns could shoot up to 25 km. The guide Jaak told us about the strategic location of Landsort. During the Second World War, between 400 and 1700 soldiers were stationed here. During the war, only Swedish civilians were allowed to enter the island. Batteri Landsort is built to survive for a longer period of time. Drinking water is collected at a depth of 100 meters. A fellow traveler wrote this about it.

Spend the night at Landsort

We spent the night in Lotstornet of Åke Svedtilja. A few years ago, this former Swedish top chef chose to stop his popular restaurant in Stockholm, to renovate the pilot tower and to run an accommodation on Landsort. In the meantime he also has a restaurant on the island. You can read more about our wonderful stay at Svedtiljas in a separate article.

After a refreshing night’s sleep, we took an even more refreshing dip in the cold waters of the Baltic Sea. It is here that my love for open water swimming rekindled. Whatever the season, if I have the opportunity to dive in a lake or in the sea, I will certainly not let it go.

How do you reach Landsort?

To travel to Landsort, from Stockholm, you first take the train to Nynäshamn. This will take just over an hour. From here you can take a (taxi) boat to Landsort or you can travel further by bus 852 to Ankarudden where you can take ferry 29 to Landsort for 75 SEK (about 8 euros – prices from 2018). In summer, the ferry sails 5 times a day. In winter you can travel to Landsort 3 times a day. Then sometimes an icebreaker is needed to reach your destination. Total travel time Stockholm-Landsort is approximately 2.5 hours.

And to conclude, a few more pictures to dream away:

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Landsort is a small island in the very south of the Stockholm archipelago. You can spend the night in the 'pilot tower'.
20 April 2021
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Fjäderholmarnas Krog

Posted in Stockholm E by
Fjäderholmarnas Krog Magasin

Previously I told you about Fjäderholmarna. I mentioned Fjäderholmarnas Krog but because the restaurant is so amazing, I thought it deserved a separate article. So I would love to take you back to Fjäderholmarna.

Michelin restaurant

On the menu you’ll mainly find fish dishes but meat lovers and vegetarians have a good choice as well. I chose Toast Skagen as an appetizer and I can honestly say that it was the best I ever ate. As a main course I went for a dish with grilled fish. The dessert was amazing, with strawberries and maräng.

  • Fjäderholmarnas Krog - maräng

In addition to the fantastic cuisine, it is also the setting that gives that little extra. In the summer months, try to get a seat on the terrace: the waterfront view is really relaxing. Occasionally, a boat passes by but you mostly just see nature.

Fjäderholmarnas Krog deserves its spot in the Michelin Guide. No wonder celebrities are regularly spotted in this restaurant!

Opening hours

Fjäderholmarnas Krog opens for the season, late April or beginning of May. They stay open until early September, both for lunch and dinner. In September, you can only eat there in the evenings from Tuesday to Friday. During Christmas season you can also book a julbord or Christmas buffet at certain times. Be sure to make reservations.
There are separate rooms available for small groups up to 12 people and for larger groups up to 60 people. At Fjäderholmarnas Krog you can also do whiskey tasting. Check the latest info on their website.

Fjäderholmarnas Krog - sunset

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Fjäderholmarnas Krog: heerlijk eten in de archipel voor Stockholm
11 May 2017
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